Above Machhermo we entered 'Death Valley'- read the link to find out why it's called this! As we neared Cho Oyu, the world's 6th highest mountain, we reached the highest valley settlement by the third of the frozen Gokyo Lakes. To acclimatise we climbed the huge lateral moraine above the Ngozumpa Glacier to watch and listen to the frequent falls of ice in to the glacier lakes. Next morning we set off before dawn without food for one of our toughest ever climbs to Gokyo Ri's summit from where views of the Everest chain more than compensated for the demands of the climb. After early lunch we relished the dangerous guide-led crossing of the glacier - the path changes frequently - to the bitterly cold lodge at Dragnag. Overnight snow created potential problems for the difficult crossing of Cho La and as Kharma was suffering from bronchitis we decided to take the much longer route down the valley passing the medical station at Machhermo for him to have a check-up. Encouraged by the prognosis we descended rapidly to the relative warmth of Phortse Tenga!

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